AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course & Exam

AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course

The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) Program teaches climbing instructors to proficiently facilitate and instruct the sport of rock climbing in a single pitch setting. The AMGA SPI is the only internationally recognized single pitch climbing instructor certification program in the United States.

The program is for current, active rock climbers who have a real desire to teach rock climbing to novices in a single pitch setting.

The SPI Course is a 27-hour training course that normally runs as three consecutive nine-hour days.

Certification lasts for three years as long as the candidate keeps current AMGA Membership and First Aid Certification.

After three years current SPI’s can re-take the SPI Assessment to retain the SPI certification.

More information can be found on the AMGA SPI Webpage here.

  • Prerequisites:

    • You are a Professional Member of the AMGA.

    • You have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch crags.

    • You are at least 18 years old at the time of the course.

    • You have at least 12 months prior climbing experience.

    • You are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).

    • You have led a minimum of 15 traditional rock climbing routes (any grade).

    • You are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.

    The above prerequisites are absolute minimums. Without having at least this amount experience you are unlikely to make best use of the training.

Single Pitch Instructor Exam

The SPI Assessment is a minimum of 16 hours, typically run over the course of two-days. It serves as the final stage in achieving certification as an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor or as the method with which current SPIs will retain their certification every 3 years.

More information can be found on the AMGA SPI Webpage here.

  • Prerequisites

    • You are a current member of the AMGA.

    • You have successfully completed an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course within the past 2 years. For those renewing, their SPI certification must be valid or within 1 year expiration.

    • You have led a minimum of 40 traditional routes, most of which should be 5.6 and on a variety of rock types.

    • You are able to comfortably lead 5.6 traditional routes, which means you place protection.

    • You are able to comfortably climb 5.8 on top rope.

    • The SPI Assessment can be taken directly following the SPI Course if the candidate successfully completed the course and meets the assessment prerequisites. However, it is highly recommended that the SPI Course candidate take time practicing and consolidating the skills learned on the course before assessment (3-6 months).

    • You do not need First Aid training to take the course or assessment. However, it is your responsibility to hold appropriate medical certification for the location that you are working in.